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Ask Dr. Clutch
Hello and welcome to my Q&A session!
Let me introduce myself, I am Dr. Clutch. I have a long history and much knowledge from years of working with Goizper and Torque Technologies. I have identified several common questions for you below along with the correct results. If you have a question that I have not identified, please ask me directly in the contact form below. Happy clutch-braking!

“My pneumatic clutch-brake linings are wearing more on one side - what do I do?”

Check the air gap and be sure that the linings move freely on the pins/bushings and are rubbing in contact when they should not be.


“I heard that my clutch-brake must be burnished. What does this mean?”

Cycling a new clutch-brake in the installation will lap in the friction surfaces and raise the clutch-brake torque to its nominal torque rating. Before burnishing, the clutch-brake torque will be up to 40% less than the nominal rating.


“I notice that after operation my pneumatic clutch-brake is hot. Is this okay?”

When the clutch-brake engages, the friction linings generate heat. This is normal and not a problem as long as the measured heat of the inside metal parts does not exceed 110° C.


“I have had a wet hydraulic clutch-brake in production for some time. I was told that they do not wear out. Is this true?”

With correct oil flow and oil temperature the wet hydraulic clutch-brake rarely needs maintenance; however, you should check the piston travel every 2000 hours of operation.


“I found out that my press operator single stroked the press at a higher cycle rate than rated by the OEM. Now the press stops slower and my brake angle is too long. What should I do?”

If the clutch-brake was stopping properly before the press was single stroked at the higher rate, chances are the friction linings were glazed due to excessive heat. Replace the linings.

      “What is the correct amount of lubrication for my pneumatic clutch-brake?”

You should set the air line lubricator for 1-2 drops for every cubic milliliter of air. Too much oil can collect in the air chamber and cause a sluggish response.


“I have a wet hydraulic clutch-brake with a heat exchanger to cool the oil - is cooler better?”

The cooling oil temperature should not be too cool or too hot but regulated at a stable temperature range that is within the clutch-brake system specifications. If the temperature is too cool then the oil will become more viscous and the torque could be affected. If the temperature is too hot then the clutch-brake can be damaged quickly.


“We have a geared press which was over lubricated and now there is grease on the pneumatic clutch-brake linings. Can they be cleaned?”

Grease and oil contamination on the linings will reduce the torque. You can try a commercial brake cleaner solvent and lightly clean the lining surface. Follow the guidelines on the cleaner. The linings will absorb grease and oil and if the contamination is too great, then you should replace the linings.


“When do I need to rebuild my pneumatic clutch-brake?”

This is really dependent upon your application and you should always follow the machine manufacturer’s guideline. As a general rule you can rebuild every 3 million clutch-brake cycles or every two years of operation.


“At what speed can I engage and release my tooth clutch?”

Tooth clutches are designed to be engaged and released at zero rpm. Depending upon the load you may be able to engage and release at a very low speed. This should be reviewed so the clutch is not damaged.

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